The Freedom to Wear Make-up

George Orwell

Tribune, 28 April 1944

[“As I Please” was a regular column in Tribune from December 1943 to February 1945 and again from November 1946 to April 1947.  This article is the second part of Orwell’s 28 April 1944 “As I Please” column.  The present title was not Orwell’s, but was rather applied to the article by Alexander S. Peak.]

Various individuals expressing their individuality in various ways

MR BASIL HENRIQUES, chairman of the East London Juvenile Court, has just been letting himself go on the subject of the Modern Girl.  English boys, he says, are ‘just grand’, but it is a different story with girls:

One seldom comes across a really bad boy.  The war seems to have affected girls more than boys….  Children now went to the pictures several times a week and saw what they imagined was the high life of America, when actually it was a great libel on that country.  They also suffer from the effects of listening through the microphone to wild raucous jitterbugging noises called music….  Girls of 14 now dress and talk like those of 18 and 19, and put the same filth and muck on their faces.

I wonder whether Mr Henriques knows (a) that well before the other war it was already usual to attribute juvenile crime to the evil example of the cinematograph, and (b) that the Modern Girl has been just the same for quite two thousand years?

One of the big failures in human history has been the agelong attempt to stop women painting their faces.  The philosophers of the Roman Empire denounced the frivolity of the modern woman in almost the same terms as she is denounced today.  In the fifteenth century the Church denounced the damnable habit of plucking the eyebrows.  The English Puritans, the Bolsheviks and the Nazis all attempted to discourage cosmetics, without success.  In Victorian England rouge was considered so disgraceful that it was usually sold under some other name, but it continued to be used.

Many styles of dress, from the Elizabethan ruff to the Edwardian hobble skirt, have been denounced from the pulpit, without effect.  In the nineteen-twenties, when skirts were at their shortest, the Pope decreed that women improperly dressed were not to be admitted to Catholic churches; but somehow feminine fashions remained unaffected.  Hitler’s ‘ideal woman’, an exceedingly plain specimen in a mackintosh, was exhibited all over Germany and much of the rest of the world, but inspired few imitators.&bbsp; I prophesy that English girls will continue to ‘put filth and muck on their faces’ in spite of Mr Henriques.  Even in jail, it is said, the female prisoners redden their lips with the dye from the Post Office mail bags.

Just why women use cosmetics is a different question, but it seems doubtful whether sex attraction is the main object.  It is very unusual to meet a man who does not think painting your fingernails scarlet is a disgusting habit, but hundreds of thousands of women go on doing it all the same.  Meanwhile it might console Mr Henriques to know that though make-up persists, it is far less elaborate than it used to be in the days when Victorian beauties had their faces ‘enamelled’, or when it was usual to alter the contour of your cheeks by means of ‘plumpers’, as described in Swift’s poem, ‘On a Beautiful Young Nymph Going to Bed’.

Copyright © The Estate of Eric Blair